Discover Alishan: A Complete Guide to Taiwan’s Mountain Gem

Ingrid from the Real Traveler standing on a wooden bridge leading to 2 wooden pavilions on the sister pond in front of big green trees inside the Alishan Recreational Area.
In this guide, we’ll provide all the information you need to plan your perfect Alishan adventure. Whether you’re visiting the National Park or exploring scenic hikes through Taiwan’s tea plantations and forests in the surrounding areas, we’ve got you covered!
A staircase leading down a hill inside the Alishan forest which is litten up by sunshine.

HOW MANY DAYS |

2 - 3


BEST TIME TO VISIT |
spring & autumn


WHERE TO STAY |

Wenzhang Youth Hostel


TOP THINGS TO SEE |

Sister Pond, Giant Tree, Sunrise Viewpoint


HOW TO GET AROUND |
walking, buses or car

Alishan is one of Taiwan’s top attractions, offering a truly magical experience. The lush forests provide a peaceful retreat, where you can unwind beneath towering trees and enjoy the serene surroundings. Take a stroll through tranquil bamboo groves and vast tea plantations, each offering stunning views over the valley below.

HOW MANY DAYS?

While it’s possible to visit the Alishan National Recreation Area in one full day, you may feel pressed for time, as there are numerous trails to explore. To fully experience the beauty of the area, including the lush forests, tea plantations, and stunning valley views, two or three days are ideal.

BEST TIME TO VISIT?

Alishan's climate is pleasant and refreshing year-round, but spring (Mar–May) and autumn (Sep–Nov) are the most comfortable times to visit due to mild temperatures and relatively dry conditions.

Spring (Mar–May): Temperatures range from 17–22°C (63–72°F). This is cherry blossom season, making it the busiest time of year. Pack layers, as mornings and evenings can be chilly.

Summer (Jun–Aug): With temperatures around 23–24°C (73–75°F), Alishan provides a cool retreat from Taiwan’s lowland heat. It’s a very popular time, especially among domestic travelers. However, it’s also the wettest season, with typhoons and frequent rain, so pack waterproof gear.

Autumn (Sep–Nov): Temperatures range between 18–23°C (64–73°F), with less rainfall compared to summer. This season is ideal for hiking and enjoying Alishan’s lush forests and changing leaves.

Winter (Dec–Feb): The coldest season, with temperatures between 15–16°C (59–61°F) during the day, freezing at night, especially during sunrise when it dips close to zero. This is the best time to witness the spectacular “sea of clouds” phenomenon.

HOW TO GET HERE?

From Sun Moon Lake:

Take the bus from Shuishe, which runs daily at 8 a.m. and at 8:30 a.m. on weekends and holidays. It takes around 3 to 3.5 hours, including a 20-minute break. Avoid the mistake we made by arriving without a reservation—we were lucky to get the last seats! To secure your spot, reserve your ticket here at least 2 days in advance. You’ll need to pay when boarding the bus, and using your EasyCard will get you a discounted fare. To return to Sun Moon Lake from Alishan, take the bus departing daily at 1 p.m., with an additional 3:30 p.m. service on weekends and holidays. Learn more about the stunning Sun Moon Lake in our guide!

From Chiayi

You have two main options to reach Alishan from Chiayi. The first is taking Bus no. 7322 from either the TRA Chiayi Main Station or Bus no. 7329 from the HSR Chiayi Station, with travel times of 2 hours and 2.5 hours, respectively. During peak times like Chinese New Year, long weekends, and the Cherry Blossom season, it’s wise to arrive early at the bus station to ensure you get a seat.

For a more scenic, though slower, option, take the Alishan Forest Railway from TRA Chiayi, which passes through Fenqihu on its way to Alishan. The train ride to Fenqihu takes about 2.5 hours, includes a 30-minute break, and then continues for another 2 hours to Alishan. Due to high demand, especially during peak seasons, it’s recommended to make your reservation 14 to 16 days in advance here.

HOW TO GET AROUND?

Inside of the National Forest Recreation Area, you can walk around, take some of the electric buses that run inside the area or take the train. You cannot pay with your EasyCard and need to buy your ticket at the ticket booth prior to stepping into the e-bus or train. The e-buses are quite expensive, when compared to the prices in any other city in Taiwan. They run every 5-20 minutes, so we thought they were more convenient than the train. 

Buses outside of the Recreation Area can be paid with the EasyCard and you can expect regular prices.

DO YOU NEED A CAR?

Before arriving, we considered it necessary but ultimately decided against it due to the added expense and difficulty of fitting it into our itinerary. While it’s not essential, having a car can provide more flexibility when selecting accommodations. It’s also more convenient if you plan to explore other hikes, such as the Eryanping Trail (Xiding) or the trails around Fenqihu. 

WHERE TO STAY?

There are some hotels within Alishan’s National Forest Recreation Area, but as budget and long-term travelers, these were far too expensive for us. In general, accommodations in this area are pricier than in other cities in Taiwan. We chose to stay in Shizhuo at a homestay with a bus stop right at our doorstep, offering a direct connection to Alishan. While there are more budget-friendly options in Fenqihu, getting around can be a bit trickier due to fewer direct connections to Chiayi and Alishan. If you want to catch the sunrise from the famous viewpoint, ask your hotel to arrange a taxi to the park.

BOOK | Zhengji Zhicha Suo Homestay

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UPON ARRIVAL

If you plan to head straight to the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area after arriving, we recommend stocking up on snacks and food at the 7-Eleven inside the station to keep you fueled for the day. Alternatively, you can have lunch at one of the restaurants in the Tourist Village inside the park. However, we suggest only sitting down for lunch if you don’t plan to explore the forest in one day. Keep in mind that many restaurants take a break and reopen at 4:30 p.m.

We stored our luggage in the lockers at the bus station, allowing us to explore parts of the forest that day. Be aware that these lockers can fill up quickly, as many tourists use them, so availability is not guaranteed. From the bus station, it’s just a 5-minute walk to the Recreation Area gate, where you’ll pay the entrance fee and receive your tickets, which are also valid for the next day.

ENTRANCE FEE |  NT$300 NT | €9 | US$10 (NT$150 discount when arriving by bus) 

CAR ENTRANCE FEE | NT$100 | €3 | US$3

TOURIST VILLAGE

In the Tourist village, you will find hotels, restaurants, convenience stores, tea shops, an ATM and a beautiful Post Office (just from the outside). 

At the Alishan’s Visitor Center, you can pick up a detailed map in many languages and with personalized recommendations by the staff  on how to go around the park. Additionally, you can refill your water bottles at a refill station before starting with your hikes.

EAT | Get Alishan’s specialty, the Camelia Seed Oil Chicken at 山芝鄉風味館 

PRICE | NT$180 - $500 | €5 - €15 | US$5 - $16

APP | See every water refill station in Taiwan with this app 奉茶行動 (iOS/Android)

TRAILS MAP | Map (pdf)

Two people walking up the staircase of the post office of Alishan with a traditional chinese design in red and green colors.


ALISHAN FOREST RAILWAY

Built during the Japanese occupation to transport the logged trees.

From the bus station, it’s an 8-minute uphill walk to Alishan Train Station. Here, you can purchase tickets and board one of three small train lines: the Chaoping Line, Chushan/Sunrise Line, and Shenmu/Sacred Tree Line. If you’re tired from walking or simply want to enjoy the experience, these short rides within the park are a great option. Trains run every 30 minutes, connecting several stations within the area.

The railway is a must for sunrise chasers, as it offers the only early-morning connection from Alishan Station to Zhushan Station, a 25-minute journey. From Zhushan, it’s a 10-minute walk to Xiaoliyuanshan Lookout, located at nearly 2,500 meters, where you can witness breathtaking sunrise views above the clouds. Be sure to purchase your ticket a day in advance, either at the station or online, as this popular ride fills up quickly.

PRICE | NT$ 100 | €3 | US$ 3


HIGHLIGHTS

Cherry Blossom Trail

If you’re visiting Alishan in spring, from late March to early April, start your hike on this trail near Zhaoping Station and you’ll find beautiful cherry blossoms in bloom.

Sister Pond

Continue north, and you’ll find yourself on the most famous trail leading to the Sister Ponds. These two small, serene ponds are surrounded by a path that winds through a misty forest of towering trees. The calm waters beautifully reflect the trees above, creating a tranquil and almost mystical atmosphere.

 

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Shouzhen Temple

After passing the Magnolia Garden, you’ll reach the Xianling Service Area, with a few food and souvenir stalls. Here, you can visit Shouzhen Temple, the largest in Alishan, known for its intricate architecture and serene atmosphere. After exploring the temple, continue your hike on the Giant Tree Trail.

READ | A Guide to Taiwanese Temple

Giant Trees Plank Trail

The two connecting trails, which take about 1.5 hours to complete, guide you through a forest filled with towering cypress trees. These impressive trees, spared by the Japanese due to their immense height and grandeur, create a majestic and awe-inspiring landscape. Among them, the oldest tree, known as No. 28, stands as a testament to time, estimated to be around 2,000 years old. 

Sacred Tree

Located near the Railway Station at the start of Giant Tree Trail 2, this enormous tree once stood as a spiritual symbol. After being struck by lightning twice and weakened by heavy rainfall, it eventually collapsed and had to be felled. Now, it quietly returns to nature, continuing its legacy in the forest.


Ciyun Viewing Platform

Next to Ciyun Temple, you’ll find a platform offering the chance to see breathtaking views of the sea of clouds. To get there, head to the small museum and follow the narrow road leading to the viewpoint. The scene is especially stunning at sunset, with the light creating a captivating and tranquil ambiance.

Three Generations Trees

As you further explore the area, you’ll encounter three generations of cedar trees, each one growing on top of the previous, with the oldest standing at over 1,500 years old. To return to the entrance, pass the King Cherry Tree and cross the wooden boat bridge to reach Xianglin Station for the bus. Alternatively, follow the forest trail downhill to the Tourist Village.

Shuishan Giant Tree

We tackled this trail in the afternoon after arriving from Sun Moon Lake, as it only takes about 1.5 hours to complete. The trail follows abandoned railway tracks and leads to a tree with the largest diameter in the area. This impressive tree was formed by several red cypresses that eventually merged into one colossal trunk. Although the section leading to the tree was closed for maintenance, it is expected to reopen in March 2025. You can still access the tree via the road and an alternative trail from the other side.

Sunrise Viewpoint (Xiaoliyuanshan)

You’ll have the chance to see a breathtaking sunrise, as the sun rises above a sea of clouds, casting a golden glow across the mountains. To reach the lookout, take the Alishan Forest Railway and walk for 10 minutes. For a quieter experience, head down to Duigaoyue Platform to avoid the crowds. You can return by train or walk down the road and take the path to Zhaoping Station, where you can continue hiking the Sister Pond Trail.


WHAT TO WEAR?

Be prepared for cooler temperatures, as the park sits at 2,000 meters above sea level, making it about 10°C colder than lower elevations. It’s a good idea to bring extra clothing for warmth, especially during sunrise, so you can adjust as needed. Since rain is common, pack an umbrella or raincoat.

If you’re only hiking within the National Forest, special hiking gear isn’t necessary, as the trails are well-maintained and easy, with no climbing involved, so regular sneakers will be enough. 

OTHER ACTIVITIES

Go on a Stargazing Tour

Offered every night, the stargazing tour takes you to the Xiaoliyuanshan platform, where a Mandarin-speaking guide will lead you through the experience. At nearly 2,500 meters above sea level, you’ll enjoy breathtaking views of the night sky. To optimize the experience, avoid the full moon, as it can reduce visibility. Get your tickets at the Visitor Centre.

Explore the Surroundings

We’ve dedicated an entire article to exploring the surrounding area, offering detailed insights into the many attractions nearby. From tranquil bamboo forests and picturesque tea farms to stunning panoramic views over the valley, there’s so much more to discover. Be sure to check it out to plan your perfect adventure beyond Alishan.

READ | Hiking guide for Tea Farms and Bamboo Forests


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